Monday, July 3, 2023

Penobscot River Either Side of Veazie: Part 1

 

Spent last week getting better acquainted with the Penobscot River, one of Maine's major rivers.  My objective was to paddle sections of the river both below and above the head of tide at Veazie, ME.  Conveniently for me Cold River Campground is located across the river from Veazie in Eddington and became my base of operations.  I pitched my tent in a light rain which progressed into a steadier rain which I awoke to the following morning.  The NOAA weather forecast was bleak and I considered hitting the abort button.  Sitting in my dry car I tuned in the local FM radio station WKIT serving Bangor/Brewer where  meteorologist Mike Geary delivered a forecast for a seemingly endless string of rainy days.  Needless-to-say the DJs were giving him a hard time and it was in response to their ribbing that he said (something to the effect) that even though it will be cloudy and rainy at times each day, there will nonetheless be more hours when it isn't raining than when it is.  Therefore, if you can work around the rainy spells, you'll do OK.  That was just what I needed to hear and following Mike's good advice, I salvaged four days of mostly dry paddling out on the Penobscot roughly between South Orrington (opening photo) and Costigan.  Thanks Mike!

Following a drive to Riverside Park in Veazie I learned of many positive changes taking place along the river thanks to the Penobscot River Restoration Project...


Map showing locations targeted by the project between Veazie and West Enfield...

The logos of the many organizations supporting the project are displayed...


Two fish species that once again have access to former migratory pathways are sturgeon:
...and salmon...

According to historical info displayed at the Veazie site there was formerly a long-standing tradition of sending the first salmon caught each year to the President of the United States.  The tradition began in 1912 and sadly came to an end in 1992 when Atlantic Salmon became endangered.  Perhaps the tradition will someday be resumed.

In paddling the tidal section between S. Orrington and Treat Falls over a two-day period I used boat launches in South Orrington and Turtlehead Park in Hampden.  A map downloaded from the Penobscot River Paddling Trail website proved useful...
This organization (PRPT) provides helpful information for paddlers and also maintains campsites easily located by their easily recognizable signage...
Their "Sturgeon Leap" site made an ideal spot for a lunch break.  A waterproof box contained a sign-in logbook...
The site also had this handsome privy...

Working my way upriver I entered Souadabscook Stream on the river's west side up to the end of navigable water at the Route 1A bridge...

In the Hampden/Brewer area there was new construction occurring on the east near Sedgeunkedunk Stream...

In a cove on the west side of the river lays this old fishing vessel...

Information found online suggests that the vessel sank in 2011 and bore the name "Roamer" or "Eastern Star".

Near the sunken vessel is this log-crib islet...
...which looks to have possibly been built by this stout fellow (who needs no introduction) seen facing the river a short distance away...



The Bangor waterfront hosts the Hollywood Casino and Maine Savings Amphitheater where James Taylor performed during my stay in the area...

 
In Bangor I paddled under four bridges spanning the Penobscot between Bangor and Brewer: Route 395, the Joshua Lawrence Chamberlain (Union St.), State St., and a CSX railroad line.  
Approaching three of the above mentioned bridges looking to the Bangor side...
Between the State St. and railroad bridge is the mouth of Kenduskeag Stream...

History has this location being where, in 1604, Samuel de Champlain met with the Wabanaki/Penobscot leader Bashabez.  A small park at the confluence has a barely legible tablet mentioning Champlain and other early European explorers thought to have sailed up the Penobscot River...
Hopefully the tablet can be made legible again.  A statue or stone monument depicting the Champlain/Bashaba meeting would be even better (imho).  

On the Brewer side of the river is Chamberlain Freedom Park where there's a statue of Maine's Civil War Medal of Honor recipient Joshua L. Chamberlain...
...and this tablet describing the crucial role he played at Gettysburg...

My ride on the tide came to an end just below Treat Falls where a dam formerly stood at the Bangor Water Works about 3.5 miles below Veazie...
 
When the tide turned so did I and was soon back at Turtlehead Park.

Very little trash was encountered...


My Penobscot paddling would continue in non-tidal waters about 10 miles above Veazie amongst islands within the Penobscot Nation.   Part 2 (soon to come) will cover that stretch.

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