Thursday, September 17, 2026

A Strategic Stretch of River

 

Found myself paddling down the Richelieu River this past Monday morning in the Canadian province of Quebec.  I'd been looking to get in one more paddling trip before summer's end and sought to find a waterway that had some historical significance, and that I hadn't previously visited.  The more I looked into the 77-mile long Richelieu River the more I came to appreciate just how active the stretch of it between the Canada/US border and Fort Saint Jean was during the late summer/fall of 1775.  At that time Major General Philip Schuyler was directed by the Continental Congress to lead an expeditionary force out of Lake Champlain and down the Richelieu River into Quebec.  The expedition consisted of some 1200 men, 2 sailing vessels (Liberty and Enterprise), and numerous batteaux.  Their mission was part of a two-pronged incursion (the other prong being Arnold's Expedition through Maine...) into Quebec with the expectation that both would ultimately combine and capture Quebec City on the St. Lawrence River.  While examining maps of the Richelieu I noticed a point of land on the river's east side called Remember Baker Point and, curious to learn more, came across Mark A. Anderson's blog post, The War Years (1775 - 1783), which provides a detailed account of an incident that occurred while Captain Remember Baker was scouting in advance of Schuyler's expedition.  This historical marker explains the basic facts...
The marker stood at the actual location from 1929 until 2024 when it was relocated to Isle La Motte on the US side of the border...

I stopped briefly at Isle La Motte to visit the new location before driving across the border into Quebec where, for the first time in my life, I was in a place where everyone spoke a different language than I.  Scouted several launch sites and enjoyed my second-ever A & W dining experience before checking into a hotel in Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu for the night.  

Early the following morning I launched into the Richelieu River near Ile Ash in Lacolle, Quebec.  A wealth of local paddling information and printable maps was found on the website La Route Bleue.

The view southward and upriver towards the US border and Lake Champlain in the distance...

Paddled a couple of miles downriver to the spot where Remember Baker was killed in a dustup over one of his boats (No Trespassing signs discourage landing)...
Presumably, Baker is buried here.

From there I continued another few miles to the 210-acre Ile aux Noix...

This bald eagle greeted my arrival there (always a good omen)...

I landed on the island's east side where it's said Schuyler's base camp was located...

These days tourists can visit the Fort Lennox National Historic Site of Canada on Ile aux Noix. Fort Lennox was built between 1819 and 1829.  However, this year Fort Lennox was closed for repairs.

After my visit I headed south back to where I'd launched...

Looking to the southwest a far-off mountain could be seen (perhaps the Adirondacks?)...

The next morning after checking out of my hotel I launched on the river's east shore at Parc Goyette.  This put me just across the river from Fort Saint Jean (Continental forces called it St. Johns)...

A little closer view...
Today the site is home to the Royal Military College Saint Jean.
 
According to information found on Wikipedia, The National Museum of the United States Army, and The Revolutionary War Journal, the British fort that once stood here became a major obstacle to Schuyler's expedition.  On September 6, 1775 Schuyler and company disembarked from Ile aux Noix and came about 11 miles downriver.  Anyone here then would have seen the sailing vessels Liberty and Enterprise along with many smaller boats landing somewhere near the Bernier River on the west shoreline...
...and then tried to approach the fort on land.  Near the creek's south side they came under attack from a force of more than 100 Mohawk warriors. 
 
 I paddled a little more than a mile from Fort Saint Jean up to and into the creek-like Bernier...

...then followed its winding course to this bridge...
...where it became too shallow.  About 1400' from this location is a historical marker (I visited by car)...


Following this skirmish Schuyler's force retreated to their camp at Ile aux Noix.  At this point, Major General Schuyler fell ill and turned over command to Brigadier General Richard Montgomery.  Another trip downriver to the fort and back upriver occurred on September 10th.  On September 17th, Montgomery decided to besiege the fort.  It ultimately took until November 3rd for the fort's commander Major Charles Preston to finally surrender to Montgomery.  By this time much of the decent weather had expired.

It seems to me that Baker's demise and Schuyler's illness may have been bad omens, just as Arnold's expedition experienced the bad omen of a drunken soldier murdering a fellow soldier early in their expedition.  Following the failed New Year's Eve attack on Quebec City, in which Richard Montgomery was killed and Arnold was wounded, the now combined force slowly retreated back up the Saint Lawrence and Richelieu River on their way home.  A detailed account of the retreat was found at RevolutionaryWarJournal.com: Canada Lost: The American Retreat from Quebec January - June 1776 by Harry Schenawolf. During the retreat they spent another10 days camped on Ile aux Noix where, according to Wikipedia, more than 900 men died from small pox and were buried in mass graves on the island. 

Before leaving the Richelieu I looked over to the entrance of the 12-mile long Chambly Canal. Today vessels heading downriver towards the Saint Lawrence River can avoid the rapids by taking the canal (seen to the left in this photo)...
The lift bridge at the canal's entrance looks like a gigantic mute swan to me.

This same stretch of river was also traversed in 1609 by Captain Samuel de Champlain along with an Algonquian war party in canoes on their way to the lake that would later bear his name.  This plaque is located on Isle La Motte...

The Richelieu River is named for Cardinal Richelieu, a powerful minister under Louis XIII.  The river was previously called the Iroquois River (per Wikipedia).  

Ile aux Noix is said to mean isle of nuts (walnuts) (per Wikipedia).


Trash was extremely rare in these parts...



Thursday, September 10, 2026

A Cloudy and Calm Concord

 

Got out on a calm Concord River from Bedford, MA yesterday under mostly cloudy skies.  Things were on the quiet side.

Noticed this helpful sign alerting boaters to the landing for Brewster's Woods on the river's west shore...


Encountered this osprey at Great Meadows Landing...



As I was preparing to leave the river a large group of paddlers were heading upriver.  The group event was conducted by the New England Healing Sports Association in association with the Bedford and Lowell Veterans Affairs facilities.    


Trash gathered up looked to have been in the river for a good bit of time...






Monday, September 7, 2026

South Meadows Complex

 

Enjoyed a quiet Sunday morning on the South Meadows Pond Complex in Clinton, MA.  The complex includes South Meadow, Mossy, and Coachlace ponds.  The above photo looks northward down the length of Coachlace Pond.

Launched from this spot on South Meadow Road...
The yellow note advises that the ponds were recently treated for nuisance aquatic vegetation.
  

South Meadow and Coachlace are connected by this culvert under the railroad tracks...
One passageway is clear while the other has a significant number of cobwebs.

The outlet for the 3-pond complex is at the northwest corner of Coachlace where the structure below once played a role in regulating and diverting a portion of the flow to the mill where lace curtains were made for coaches...

Also at the outlet is evidence of the rocky stretch where the brook begins its descent towards the Nashua's North Branch...
The amount of descent is noted when driving from New Harbor Road downhill on Main Street to Church Street.  Near that intersection a construction project was underway possibly involving the out-of-sight culverted brook.

This floating structure on Coachlace has seen better days...


Trash found along the way...



Friday, September 4, 2026

Rounding Orchard Hill

 

Paddled the Assabet River this morning after launching from Cox Street in Hudson, MA.  Lingering fog had burned off resulting in a warm and sunny day.  Headed downstream following the river's winding course around Orchard Hill in Stow, MA...




Turned around at the Gleasondale dam...


Trash included 30 "nip" bottles...



Wednesday, September 2, 2026

A Calm and Shallow Sudbury

 

Headed up the Sudbury River early this morning after launching at Sherman's Bridge in Wayland, MA.

Came across a hunter targeting Canada geese.  Believe it's the first time I've ever seen Canada geese decoys deployed on the water.

Some wildlife encounters along the way included this carp (I believe) in the shallows...

...and this possible river otter?...

...an eastern kingfisher...

...and this immature hawk perched atop a beaver lodge...

At the Route 27 bridge...
...any hopes of following the river's old course to the Town Bridge were dashed by the low water level...



Trash was very light...



Monday, August 31, 2026

A Litterer's Welcome Mat

 

Headed up the Sudbury River early yesterday morning, towards and under Route 2 in Concord, MA (above photo) along the way.  Conditions were ideal with calm winds and a temperature of 60 degrees F.


Arriving at Fairhaven Bay I pulled up to Brooke Island (aka Scout Island) to take a little break.  It's a beautiful island with a small beach where boaters can easily land their vessels.  Rarely do I see  any trash there...until yesterday when this sight greeted me at the island's only landing spot...


These litterers seemed deliberate as to where they left their trash.

Went further upriver to the outlet from Farrar Pond in Lincoln before heading back.  Approaching Lee's Bridge on the return trip...

...where a bridge of some sort has connected the towns of Concord and Lincoln since 1760.

The Union Turnpike Bridge (Elm St.) in Concord...

The relatively small amount of trash would have been miniscule if not for that found on the island...