Remembering Tidal Times

 

This past Tuesday I launched into the Charles River at the DCR Boat Launch in Brighton (part of Boston, MA) across the river from Watertown, MA and paddled upriver (photo above).  Earlier that morning, on my way to the boat launch, I took a stab at locating the grave of an ancestor who was born in 1643 and lived in Watertown about a mile from my destination, the onetime head of tide (before the Charles River Dam was built). He was the first ancestor of mine born in the New World.  I'd spent almost an hour searching and was just ready to give up when I stumbled upon his gravestone...

Joseph is buried in Grove Hill Cemetery, Waltham, MA (formerly part of Watertown) about 2 miles from the same head of tide. 

  

Like him, I was born not far from the Charles River.  In my recent readings of Captain John Smith's adventures and explorations in Virginia I came across his post-Virginia visit to New England in 1614.  Before publishing his new map of New England he decided to ask "The High Hopeful Charles, Prince of Great Britaine...whereof I heere present your Highness the description in a Map; my humble sute is, you would please to change their Barbarous names, for such English, as Posterity may say, Prince Charles was their Godfather." The part of Smith's map showing "The River Charles"...

A later and more updated version found on the Boston Rare Maps website...

...and the "schedule" Smith included in his Description of New England showing his original names on the map versus those changed by Prince Charles...

The same Prince Charles would later become King Charles I and reign during the English Civil War.  After going more than a little rogue, King Charles was convicted of treason and beheaded in 1649 during the time that Oliver Cromwell controlled England.  Ironically, Charles's son, Charles II, would later regain the throne in the 1660 Restoration.  In an act of reconciliation he pardoned all of Cromwell's supporters except any men (said to be about 50) who played a role in his father's conviction and beheading.  Those poor souls became known as "Regicides" and were hunted down all over the realm.  Several took refuge here in New England where they lived out their days in hiding always fearful of being discovered. 

Meanwhile, back on The River Charles, or perhaps I should say the "Massachusetts River", and heading upstream I passed a knoll on the north side of the river where this historical marker notes how Roger Clap and and company came ashore at the wrong location by mistake...

The spot is near the Perkins School for the Blind where their Howe building rises high above the river...

A little further upriver and also on the north side is the Watertown Founders Monument with its statue of Sir Richard Saltonstall looking towards the river...

Finally reached what was once the head of tidewater navigation near Watertown Landing and the Galen Street Bridge...

The Native Americans called this area Pequossette or Peguusset and it's said many congregated at the falls here in springtime for the bountiful fishing.  The Watertown Dam (at the falls) is around the bend just beyond the bridge.  The current was swift and after turning about provided an easy ride downstream...

Near Griffin's Island the boat slips were empty except for the seagulls...

Heading back downriver the Boston Skyline comes into view...

Yesterday, thanks to our high water levels, I paddled to a cut-off section of the Sudbury River in Wayland, MA where the Old Town Bridge still spans the river's original route...

At one end of the bridge stands a monument to 8 men from Concord who on April 21, 1676, during King Philips War, attempted to aid the Colonists under attack in the Hayes Garrison House across the river...

Each spring I try to paddle to the above monument as it marks the location where my ancestor, Joseph, whose grave I finally located on Tuesday, helped to retrieve and bury the bodies of the Concord men  killed that day...

 

Joseph would have been about 33 years old and had marched about 10 miles from Watertown with Captain Mason's contingent of 40 Watertown men.  They would also bury a larger group of soldiers who'd been killed at Green Hill further from the river.  He and another Watertown man left this written account of their actions: 

"...we drove two hundred Indians over the river and joyned with som others and went to see if we could relieve Captain Wadsworth upon the hill and thear we had a fight with the Indians but they being soe many of them and we stayed soe long that we were almost incompassed by them which caused us to retreat to Captain Goodanous Garrison and their we stayed it being ner night till it was dark and then we went to Mr. Moices Mill to see if we could find any that were escaped to that place all though they wear now persons dwelling there; and thear we found 13: or 14: of Captain Wadsworths men who wear escaped some of them wounded and brought them to Sudbury towne.  On the next day in the morning soe soon as was light we went to looke for Concord men who wear slain in the River middow an thear we went in the colld water up to the knees where we found five and we brought them in Conus to the Bridge fut and buried them thear; and then we joyned ourselves to Captain Hunton with as many others as we could procuer and went over the River to look for Captain Wadsworth and Captain Brattlebank and the soldiers that were slain; and we gathered them up and buried them; and then it was agreed that we should goe to Nobscot to bring the Carts from thence into Sudbury-Towne and so returned Hom againe; to what is above written we whos names are subscribed can testifi: dated the 6: of March: 78/79  Daniel Warren, Joseph Peirce." 

In Joseph's lifetime his King, Charles I, reigned and was later executed in 1649, Oliver Cromwell (the fun seeker) came to power resulting in the 1660 Restoration of the monarchy which brought King Charles II to power, several Regicides arrived in New England seeking refuge from the King's wrath, the King Philips War occurred, and to top it all off...the Salem Witch Trials took place (a tumultuous lifetime!).

One odd item seen along the river was this old payphone from a bygone era (which I remember well)...

Perhaps it was retrieved by a magnet fisherman and left on the rocks because of its hefty weight.

While out on the Sudbury tree swallows were noted to have returned in good numbers and were seen resting between acrobatic performances...

Trash of a plastic nature gathered up on Tuesday while on the Charles included 26 "nip" bottles...

Yesterday's trash from the Sudbury included 10 "nip" bottles...

An Ice-Free Fairhaven

Got an early start yesterday morning in order to beat the predicted rain.  Was pleasantly surprised to find the Lincoln (MA) Canoe Launch completely free of ice as it's often one of the last places to melt.  Got past this slap-happy beaver...

...and shortly reached the Sudbury River's Fairhaven Bay...

...where the stone boathouse at the far end...

...indicated the water level was still on the high side.  The high water combined with the lack of vegetation allowed access to the sanctity of Well Meadow...

...where this blue heron stood his ground...

Another place not usually accessible was the double-barreled outlet of Farrar Pond...

...which is located almost a mile upriver from Fairhaven.

A row of old sugar maples with their syrup-collecting galvanized pails...

A red-tailed hawk had his eye on something below...

An eagle nest showed little activity...

Once back at the Lincoln Canoe Launch, on its kiosk I noticed this photo (by Maury Eldridge) accompanied by a quote by Henry D. Thoreau...

Before Maury's untimely passing he and I would occasionally run into each other while paddling Fairhaven.  I miss seeing him out on the water.

Trash was on the light side except for two plastic bags full of wet clothing...

...and a baseball bat serving as a reminder of the upcoming baseball season.

A Trashy Equinox

 

Got out on the Assabet River in Stow, MA yesterday to greet the much-awaited Vernal Equinox scheduled to arrive around 10:45 am.

There was sunshine, plenty of water, and more trash than usual for this stretch of river.  Temperatures rose steadily, eventually reaching the low 50s F...

A pair of mute swans came in low and fast...

The growing season has begun for some plants like these skunk cabbage...

Red-winged blackbirds were everywhere and showed their red stripes most when making their distinctive call...

A bald eagle flew overhead...

Later clouds moved in, the wind cranked-up considerably, and the Equinox spell was broken. 

Back to Reality

 

On Sunday I got back out on my local waters and there was still snow in one of the Assabet River's sloughs to welcome me home.

Thanks to all the recent snow melt water levels have risen to the point where the inscription at Egg Rock is almost completely submerged...

Lots of wood ducks were out and about...

A pileated woodpecker went about his work...

...and my first red-winged blackbird of 2026 was encountered on the Concord River..

Also on the Concord the Old North Bridge looks ready for upcoming April 19th...

Trash included 21 "nip" bottles...

After Monday's substantial rainfall several local rivers will likely rise to flood stage levels

Went Looking for Spring, Found Summer Instead

    

                                                      (Rappahannock River near Morattico, VA)

Last year in March I got a jumpstart on springtime by driving down to Jamestown, Virginia and paddling some of the waterways plied by Captain John Smith in late 1607, specifically his exploration of the Chickahominy River, which led to his being captured by the Powhatan tribe and the whole Pocahontas incident at Werowocomoco.  Over this long and cold winter I savored some of those on-water moments while reading more of The Generall Historie of Virginia, New England, and The Summer Isles 1624 which included firsthand accounts of Capt. Smith's subsequent adventures when he and his crew spent the summer of 1608 exploring and mapping Chesapeake Bay...

Their open boat is believed to have measured 30 feet long by 8 feet wide.  It could be rowed or sailed. Smith called it a "Barge". 

On last Sunday's switch to Daylight Saving Time I left a cold and foggy New England in my rearview mirror and headed south. 

Seven hours later while driving across the Delmarva Peninsula I found the Captain John Smith Trail at Fox Hole Landing in Galena, Maryland...

Smith and crew spent several days in the upper reaches of Chesapeake Bay in early August 1608.  In that general area they encountered 7 or 8 canoes full of Massawomek warriors, a village of the Tockwogh people, and some 60 Sasquesahanock men they described as being giants.  The Sassafras River was called "Tockwogh Flu" on Smith's map.  A unique feature of his map was his drawing a cross to mark the furthest point he ascended each river.  According to his map's scale of leagues, the cross on his map would've been in the general vicinity of Fox Hole Landing.  I launched there and looked downriver...

There were numerous dead fish floating in the river that I believe were shad...

...having fulfilled their life cycle.  

Bald eagles (this, a immature one) ...

...and turkey vultures...

...were feasting.

Once back at Fox Hole Landing I had the pleasure of meeting a Maryland Conservation officer who took the time to share some of his local knowledge.

Then it was back on the road needing to cross the Bay Bridge and the Potomac River before reaching my destination in King George, Virginia.  By the time I got there temperatures were approaching 70 degrees F.

Once in Virginia I travelled to a place on the Rappahannock River that Smith called Moraughtacund.  Today it's known as Morattico...

It was in Moroughtacund that Smith and crew were hospitably welcomed by the Moraughtacund people for a few days after entering the Rappahannock River.  It was then close to mid August.  Here they encountered their "old friend" Mosco...

For me, Mosco is a character who sort of jumps off the page.  Because he has a black, bushy, beard the Englishmen surmise he was perhaps the son of a Frenchman.  He figures prominently in their adventures on the Rappahannock.

This plaque at nearby Belle Isle State Park shows the location of Moraughtacund (just above the "you are here")...

There is also an artist's sketch of Smith and crew trading with Native Americans...

From the park's Canoe and Kayak Launch I dropped into Mulberry Creek and paddled towards Morattico passing this occupied eagle's nest along the way...

...and further along where the Waterfront Museum reminds of bygone days...

In Lancaster Creek I landed at a spot that, for all I know, Smith and company may have gone ashore...

There were oysters laying on the sandy bottom.

A pair of ospreys in nest...

The Rappahannock River is wide in this area...

As Smith's company went further upriver from Moraughtacund they twice came under bow and arrow attack from Rappahannock warriors.  In one of the attacks the Rappahannock warriors were disguised as "bushes".  Fortunately, by following the advice of their guide, Mosco, the arrows were stopped by shield-like devices made of small sticks woven between strings of hemp and grass.  

I next picked up Smith's path at Wilmont Landing in King George, VA.  Launched into foggy conditions on what would turn out to be a beautiful summerlike day...

As the fog burned off Clay Cliffs came into view (heading downriver) ...

Around the bend I looked further down and imagined Smith's "barge" sailing towards me...

An eagle enjoyed a high perch atop one of the cliffs...

Back at Wilmont Landing I had the good fortune to meet Virginia Conservation Police Officer Fisher...

...who generously shared some of his local knowledge with me.

Somewhere between here and Fredericksburg, VA one of Smith's crew, Mr. Fetherstone, came down with a fever and died.  The crew gave him a proper burial at a place they named Fetherstone Bay.  The next day they ascended the Rappahannock River to the head of tide at Fredericksburg...

While away from their boat in the area of the falls they came under attack by a Mannahoac hunting party which resulted in them capturing an injured Mannahoac man, Amoroleck...

Amoroleck's translated words proved prophetic. Later the following day he would be allowed to return to his people and peaceful relations were established with the Mannahoacs.  I can't help but wonder what became of Amoroleck later in life.  I'm also curious as to the fate of Mosco.  As a result of the help he provided to Smith he was gifted many of the items they'd captured: several canoes, numerous bows and arrows, and even one of three Rappahannock women that had been "stolne" by the Moraughtacunds. The three women's fate was a key issue in an awkward peace agreement Smith arranged between the Moraughtacuns and Rappahannocks.  It's my guess that Capt. John Smith enjoyed his adventurous summer of 1608 on the waters of Chesapeake Bay as opposed to having spent it within the confines of Jamestown.  

Less than a mile above the Amoroleck marker...

I launched from City Docks Park in Fredericksburg, VA and paddled upriver...

...to where I reached the head of tide beneath the Route 1 bridge.  They probably left  their boat somewhere in this area and proceeded on foot...

Later I hiked alongside the river's south side up to a marker...

The marker is inscribed as...

   

...and was placed here by the Captain John Smith Cross Project which has placed similar markers at 24 locations corresponding to the crosses on Smith's map.

At this location once stood the Embrey Dam.  A marker there commemorates the dam's removal in 2004...

...thus allowing the Rappahannock to become one of the longest free-flowing rivers in the eastern United States.

City Docks Park also had this plaque mentioning the large numbers of Native Inhabitants of the Chesapeake region...

All of my Rappahannock paddles were on days where the temperature exceeded 80 degrees F.  When I planned this trip I never would've expected to experience summerlike temperatures for 3 days in a row.

By the way, the spot where I launched at City Docks Park in Fredericksburg was located just across the river from the home where George Washington lived as a boy...

A replica of the house could be seen on the opposite shore...

Seemed a coincidence as I was hoping to paddle a bit of the Delaware River at Washington Crossing, Pennsylvania on my way home to New England.

Left Virginia early on Wednesday morning for the drive to Washington Crossing Historic Park...

.  

Arrived there just as a cold front approached the area.  Having the required permit I launched into the Delaware River behind a small island...

It didn't take long to realize the current was stronger than I expected...

At the downstream tip of the island I contemplated crossing to the New Jersey side...

Decided against it and paddled the length of the island a few times while gathering up a bit of trash.  That trash joined with that found on my Rappahannock and Sassafras paddles...

Not too bad for 5 paddles.

Post paddle in the park's Visitor Center I found several depictions of Washington and his force of 2,400 men making the crossing...

Lastly, a statue of General Washington perched high atop a pedestal gazing across the river...