Wednesday, August 17, 2022

Merrimack - Hunts Falls to the Great Stone Dam

 

Recently explored the stretch of the Merrimack River between Hunts Falls in Lowell, MA and the Great Stone Dam in Lawrence, MA (2 days last week and one day this week).  I don't know why, but for some reason I've rarely visited this section of the Merrimack River despite it being within 30 miles of my home .  Back in 2013 I did launch informally from behind a parking lot in Methuen, MA  and paddled up to Pine Island and back but never returned to see more.  

I ultimately decided to paddle the approximately 8.5 mile distance between Hunts Falls and the Great Stone Dam by doing two up/back and one down/up paddle.  I utilized two boat launches: one an informal launch off of Route 110 in Dracut about 3 miles downriver from Hunts falls, and the other the Riverside Boat Launch in Methuen which provides dedicated parking, a ramp and dock.   While I actually started with the middle section then the upper and lower sections, I present them here in sequential order downriver from Hunts Falls.  The above photo shows the view downriver from below Duck Islands.

This map shows the first section from Hunts Falls down to the informal boat launch...

The informal boat launch I started from....



...and this very upright fellow I passed enroute to Hunts Falls...


Once at the base of Hunts Falls...

...I found myself about 2000' from the Hunts Falls Bridge which was just around the bend and out of view.  Another 500' beyond the bridge is the confluence of the Concord and Merrimack rivers.  The land I could see was, long ago, reserved for the Wamesit people and was comprised of 2,500 acres on the east side of the Concord River and 1,500 acres on the west side of the Concord.  

Just below Hunts Falls and on the north side of the river is the Greater Lowell Regional Wastewater Treatment Facility.  On the opposite side is what appears to be a combined sewer outfall facility...

All the storm release gates were closed and dry which is one benefit of our drought conditions this summer.  Just downstream ample quantities of ducks were enjoying the river around the appropriately-named Duck Islands...

The shallow pool below the islands looks to be a favorite spot for shore-fishermen.  Sadly, they didn't pack out what they brought in and left a considerable pile of trash on the shore...

My trip back downriver included one tree that broke ranks and decided to change color early...

On the river's south side I came across this crewless and derelict Matchbox vessel.  Despite its rough condition it was still afloat and seaworthy...


Next along the same shady side of the river was this sign welcoming me to Andover...

On a different day I resumed my downriver journey having launched from the Riverside Boat Launch in Methuen...




Pine Island...


The mouth of Fish Brook near the Deer Jump Reservation...

One of many orange booms I encountered...
...which may be used for capturing flotsam.  If so, they were all free of any accumulation.

Next I reached the Shattuck Farm Site and walked to one of the lower terraces closest to the river...

According to Barbara E. Luedtke in her 1985 book The Camp at the Bend in the River: Prehistory at the Shattuck Farm Site "Shattuck Farm (in Andover) is one of the most famous prehistoric sites in the lower Merrimack....".  "The location has been in virtually continuous use for at least 8,000 years...".   Luedtke speculates that one reason for folks using the site was its proximity to Peters Falls which she believed may have been where the Route 93 bridge is located today.  The falls would have provided good fishing and the land at the site was well drained and dry.  When the Shattuck Farm was developed for an office park in the 1970's the Town of Andover placed a several mile-long strip of land along the river into a conservation easement thus preserving it from development.  There is a continuous trail running alongside the river.  I passed under one of the trail's bridges to access a secluded wetland...


A kiosk near the bridge provided a map of the trail system...

The section showing the Shattuck Farm site...


The Shattuck Farm site is across the river from the Riverside Boat Launch in Methuen.  This photo  shows the proximity of Ivy Island (on right) and the Rt.93 bridge to the Riverside Launch...

Yesterday I paddled the stretch from Riverside Boat Launch down to the Great Stone Dam...

After passing under the Route 93 Bridge I looked back to where Barbara Luedtke surmised Peters Falls may have been located before the Great Stone Dam raised the river's level here by 8 to 10 feet...
Luedtke mentioned that Ivy Island may be the small island once said to have been located near the top of the falls.

Few buildings remain along the river's south side.  This one looked to have had a utilitarian river-related purpose...

Just beyond the abandoned building I left Andover...

Upon entering Lawrence a sizable marsh opens to the south...


Approaching the dam the river was busy thanks to Greater Lawrence Community Boating with youngsters enjoying sailing in a busy breeze out of the north...

View over the Great Stone Dam with the Broadway/O'Leary Bridge just beyond the dam...

The most distinctive mill structure in view was the Ayer Mill Clock Tower...
...which now sits above a New Balance facility.

The Great Stone Dam is said to have been the longest (900')  dam of its type in the world when it was built.  Barbara Luedtke wrote "The dam at Lawrence, begun in 1845 and finished in 1848 was an engineering marvel for its time, but the quality of the engineering did not extend to its fishway, which was a dismal failure.  Therefore, 1848 also marks the end of the famous fishery on the Merrimack."

On my way back upriver an osprey was seen transporting his next meal...




My trash haul for Monday...

Thursday's...


Yesterday's...

The trash I encountered was mostly in the nooks and crannies hard by the shore where only a small vessel such as a canoe or kayak could get to it.  
 

Sandwiched between my Merrimack paddles, were visits to the Assabet in Stow, MA and the Sudbury River in Lincoln, MA.

On the Assabet River last Wednesday I found the eagles nest now completely gone...


Despite the nest not being there, a recently fledged eaglet was still hanging perhaps in hopes of getting a food delivery from his parents...


Some trash from the Assabet...


Last Friday on the Sudbury River I paddled with my granddaughter...


  ...who saw her first-ever bald eagle on the river's Fairhaven Bay in Concord...








Saturday, August 6, 2022

Find Water and Beat the Heat

Beating the heat and finding enough water to keep from scraping bottom was my main goal this past week.  Doing so required early morning visits to dam-impounded waters.  On Tuesday I found adequate water and tolerable temps on the Nashua River from Hospital Rd. in Devens, MA...


The ramp modifications are now complete at Hospital Rd and very wheel-friendly...

An osprey approved...

Headed upriver not seeing too much in the way of trash until about a mile beyond Route 2 where this trash trap had captured a good bit of plastic...


On Thursday, when Boston set a record high temperature for the day of 98 degrees F, I launched a little after sunrise into the Merrimack River from Southwell Park in N. Chelmsford, MA...


The cool feel of the early morning was more than welcome.  The stone-arch bridge over Stoney Brook awaited its next train...


A green heron stayed on the shady side of the river...


Following the heron's lead I found good shade rounding Wicasee Island before heading back to the launch site...


Was off the water by 9:30 with my goal accomplished.

Trash from Tuesday's paddle on the Nashua included 165 nips...


...whereas the Merrimack on Thursday was a lot less nippy...



Monday, August 1, 2022

Starting to Scrape Bottom

 

Not a lot of water greeted me at the Lincoln Canoe Launch last Thursday late-morning as our summer drought conditions persist.

An irrigation pump nearby was busy sucking water from the river and dispersing it through a sprinkler on an adjacent field...


The stone boathouse in Fairhaven Bay sat high and dry...


This eagle was encountered at several spots around the bay...


On Saturday I paddled the upper Concord River starting from an also high and dry Egg Rock...


Concord's Mill Brook tributary was non navigable...


Another item recently exposed was the outlet for the Concord Wastewater Treatment Facility...


A couple of old bottles were also exposed.  The first was a half-pint Ginter Co. Importers Boston MA bottle dating to perhaps either side of 1900...

On Jack Sullivan's blog Those Pre-Pro Whiskey Men is an interesting post about the Ginter Company's owner.

A little further along and on the same side of the river was this Hood's Sarsaparilla bottle...

Unfortunately it has an internal crack but is still watertight.  The sarsaparilla was bottled at  C. I. Hood and Company in Lowell, MA where according to Historic New England a large brick laboratory was built in 1882.  It was said to be 4 stories high with 175,000 square feet.  There were 18 tanks used in making enough sarsaparilla to fill 420,000 bottles of Hood's Sarsaparilla or enough to load 54 freight cars.  The building which is still there today and now known as Thorndike Exchange is located about 3/4 of a mile from the confluence of the Concord and Merrimack rivers.  The bottle appears to date from 1890.  

Also exposed by the declining water level was yet another trash bag of mail similar to the many found previously in this same area...


Turned around at October Farm...


...where I visited the ruins of William Brewster's cabin...

...and his nearby house fit for a canoe...

While out on the Concord I encountered a pair of paddlers in folding Oru kayaks.  This is the 16 ft long model...
These boats can be carried to and from the water in a bag.


Trash from Thursday...

Trash from Saturday where glass outnumbered plastic for a change...