Saturday, August 23, 2025

Connecticut's Gorge and Nashua's "Nip Bottle" Bonanza

 

The highlight of my kayaking week was paddling under the above pictured French King Bridge straddling the Connecticut River gorge between the Massachusetts towns of Gill and Erving.  

I spent two nights tent-camping at Barton Cove Campground in Gill where there was a feeling of fall in the air...


The campground, operated by FirstLight Energy, is located on a nearly mile-long narrow peninsula that juts out into Barton Cove...

  
The tent sites are spacious with raised tent platforms, picnic tables, charcoal grills, and a fire pit.  Electricity is not available.  Being about 30 feet above the river there's usually a breeze and therefore bugs were not a problem.  After setting up camp on Monday afternoon I drove 11 miles to Sunderland, MA where I utilized an informal launch near Gunn Brook for access to the Connecticut River.

Paddled upriver passing Third Island...
...where very shallow conditions were found between the island and the mouth of the Saw Mill River.  Eventually I reached the railroad bridge spanning the river near the large East Deerfield freight yard...
No sooner had I turned about and begun heading downriver than a Berkshire and Eastern Railroad freight crossed the bridge from east to west...
...pulling a string of center-beam cars which, combined with the bridge, provided a wealth of geometric angles...

The trip back to Gunn Brook included views of Mt. Toby known to the native Norwottuck people as Kunckquachu (per a 1658 deed)...
...and a pair of great egrets...


The following day I launched at the State Boat Ramp in Barton Cove a short drive from the campground...

Downriver passage isn't possible due to the Turners Falls dam, canal etc...

Heading upriver I passed this pair of bald eagles...

...before paddling through the "Narrows" at the tip of the peninsula. 

Further along was this large stand of bulrush...
...as well as Joe Pye weed...

Cliffs speak to when, before the dam, this was a true gorge with a section of rapids...


About 4 miles from the boat launch I reached the gorge and its French King Bridge. Paddled about a half mile upriver from the bridge to the mid-channel French King Rock (for which the bridge is named)...

The lore on how the rock was named is described as follows on the website of the French King Restaurant and Motel: "Historical records say that in 1674, a French and Indian Expedition, enroute to attack the colonists in nearby Deerfield, made camp on the western bank of the river to avoid running the rapids at nightfall.  The conspicuous rock seen from the bank of the river became a fixed landmark in the French commander's report.  In a ceremony of dedication an altar fire was started on the rock and sprinkled with river water. The stone was christened "French King Rock" in honor of King Louis XIV of France."

As I approached the bridge, returning from the rock, a utility truck atop the bridge provided a sense of scale...

The bridge, built in 1932, is said to be 139 feet high.  It is said that there is a spot in the vicinity of the bridge where the depth is 130 feet.

Lamp posts at the bridge's four corners are topped with sculpted eagles...

Just downstream of the bridge at Cabot Camp is the confluence of the Connecticut River and one of its larger tributaries, the Millers River...

On my return trip downriver I landed at a beach before passing back through the "Narrows"...
...and realized I did not want this paddle to end.

Once back in Barton Cove I extended things by paddling into Lily Pond which, before the dam, was separated from the river.  The pond has numerous cliffs of its own...



Very little trash was encountered in two paddles on the Connecticut...



Closed out my week yesterday with a Nashua River paddle from Oxbow National Wildlife Refuge in Harvard, MA.  Just before reaching the boat launch at the site of the former Still River Depot was the parked (awaiting a new crew) CSXT freight train M427...
The train runs daily from Portland, ME to Selkirk (near Albany) NY and carries a lot of Maine's paper mill traffic.

After launching I paddled about a half mile up to where trees blocked the river.  Turned about and heard the train signal that they were about to get underway.  This was followed by the sound of the three locomotives powering-up in order to get the 118 freight cars across the Nashua River and enroute to Worcester and beyond...
I was impressed with how quickly the locomotives got a train with that many cars up to speed.

Headed downriver on a beauty of a morning...

 Came across a dive-recovery operation below a bridge...

Plenty of plastic trash was encountered on this stretch of the Nashua...

After taking the above photo I encountered a large concentration of plastic "nip" bottles which ultimately resulted in this pile of 302 "nips"...

This topped my previous one-day record of 270 (also from the Nashua).  So far this year my total "nip" bottle count (from all rivers) is 1,649.  Of those, 1355 (82%) came from the Nashua River between Lancaster and the dam at East Pepperell...kind of like the "Bermuda Triangle" of "nip bottles".

At the Oxbow N.W.R. takeout I met Sr. Federal Wildlife Officer Chris Kelly of U.S. Fish and Wildlife who generously offered to dispose of the trash I'd collected.  Thanks, Chris



Monday, August 18, 2025

Dog Days Paddling

The Nashua River at Petapawag in Groton, MA made a great spot to get in an early morning paddle this past Wednesday.  Temperatures were predicted to reach or exceed 90 degrees F. later in the day.  My early start allowed me to get off the water before things got too hot.


An osprey was encountered...

Some color was provided by Cardinal flowers and purple loosestrife...


Yesterday, paddled the Sudbury River between Egg Rock and Fairhaven Bay.  It was another early morning launch to evade the building heat and humidity.  The Egg Rock inscription attests to just how low water levels have sunk...


The river was quiet on the way upstream passing under Nashawtuc Road...


Fairhaven Bay opened up before me after passing Martha's  Point...


Wildlife included this great egret...

...and this killdeer...

Didn't see any power boats, perhaps due to the low water levels.  There were several folks fishing from kayaks one of whom had this well-equipped setup...


Trash from the Nashua River included 15 "nip" bottles...


Trash from the Sudbury River was concentrated around Heath's Bridge and appeared to have been left behind by shore fishermen...



Sunday, August 10, 2025

Salted and Unsalted Waters

 

Had a variety of salted and unsalted experiences this past week which included paddles on the Concord, Danvers, Annisquam, and Merrimack rivers.  In the above photo, taken on Thursday in Gloucester, MA, I was passing under the Annisquam River's A. Andrew Piatt Bridge just prior to the hazy (wildfire smoke) finally dissipating.

Started my paddling week last Sunday morning on the Concord River where I saw my first Cardinal flower of the season...

...and this immature eagle with what looks to be a band on his leg...


On Tuesday enroute to Gloucester I got off Rt. 128 for a paddle down the Danvers River from Pope's Landing to Beverly Harbor...
Hard to believe there was clear blue sky above the haze.
  

Once I'd set up camp at Cape Ann Camp Site in West Gloucester I had easy access to the Jones and Annisquam rivers from Gloucester's Long Wharf...

...where launches are easily made 3 hours either side of high tide.  A banks dory moored nearby...
On Wednesday I headed up to Ipswich Bay passing Annisquam Light on the way...
...as well as these flags showing a light northerly breeze...

 
Followed Cape Ann's coastline to the picturesque Lanes Cove...
A great spot for a break and some leg-stretching.  Then it was back out to sea from the granite block protected cove...

...and back to the Annisquam River for a top-of-the-tide swim followed by a short foray to the head of Lobster Cove...

The following day I again launched at Long Wharf and headed downriver with the incoming tide passing under the A. Andrew Piatt Bridge (opening photo) on my way to Little River.   In this quiet and scenic cove the 2-masted "Bald Eagle" was tied up at a houseboat...
...only a few hundred yards from the traffic on Route 128. 

This area seemed popular with osprey...

...snowy egret...

...and this blue heron...

I made landfall at Stubby Knowles Landing...
...named for...

A sign describes the landing...
There's a variety store across Essex Ave which allows supplies to be replenished.

Re-launched and paddled around Stanwood Point for a visit to the re-configured railroad draw-bridge across the Annisquam River...

The wildfire haze and clouds had finally left the skies making for an enjoyable trip back under the bridge...
...to Long Wharf via the Jones River .


Before breaking camp on Friday morning I drove to Eastern Point Wildlife Sanctuary...


 ...where I hiked past the Eastern Point Lighthouse...
...and out onto the 2,250-foot long Dog Bar Breakwater...

...ending at the diminutive Dog Bar Breakwater Lighthouse...

...where a a reference marker is planted in the granite...


A couple of boat names I liked were at dock in the Annisquam...


Wrapped up the week early this morning with a beat-the-heat paddle on the Merrimack River from Greeley Park Boat Ramp in Nashua, NH...
...one of the Merrimack's nicer spots to launch from..

.Paddled upriver to Cromwell's Falls...
...where the boat lock the Thoreau brothers passed through in 1839 still remains...

Enjoyed the novelty of paddling through the lock. Upriver from the lock a stonewall of sorts diverts a good portion of the river's flow to create a deeper channel along river's west shoreline...

On my way back to the takeout at Greeley I had the chance to meet two New Hampshire Conservation Officers patrolling the river.  Both Kevin Bronson and Rob McDermott have often appeared on the Animal Planet television show North Woods Law.  Kind of strange that though I'd never met them it felt like I had.  Sgt. Bronson seen later at the boat launch...

Saw a bald eagle in flight at Cromwell's Falls as well as this more stationary great egret...
Also saw blue and green herons, an osprey, and a pair of killdeer.



Trash for the week was a bit unusual:

Trash from the Concord River included a nearly full propane cylinder...
...which came in handy to fuel my stove while camping in Gloucester.

Trash from my 3 saltwater paddles was light...
...but included a nearly full can of "Deep Woods OFF" bug repellant, also handy in camp.  Suspect the unopened package of sausages must have been missed by a boater perhaps unaware it had fallen overboard.

Finally, the trash from the Merrimack River...
...included a couple of Mylar balloons along with the more usual assortment of plastic containers.