Thursday, June 18, 2015

Noquochoke and Acoaxet Waters

Westport is a part of Massachusetts that I hadn't visited since my earliest days when, as an infant, I spent some time at Horseneck Beach. Now that I think about it, I realize that was probably the first time I ever saw the ocean.  As to why I never returned in the ensuing years it might be due to Westport's being tucked into an out of the way corner of the state and not anywhere I'd pass through on the way to someplace else.  In fact in order to reach the Acoaxet section of Westport by land you have to enter from Rhode Island.

Before Westport became part of Massachusetts it was within the Wampanoag territory and may have accommodated both the Pocasset and Sakonnet tribes. 

This past Saturday evening, Westport was my intended destination for a couple of nights camping under the stars at the Westport Camping Grounds.  Sandwiched between those 2 nights would be a Sunday devoted to exploring new (to me) tidal waters.

Following a good night's sleep I awoke early on Sunday morning for the short drive to Hix Bridge Landing (opening photo), my intended launch spot.

These signs greeted me...

...and had me considering the need to find an alternative launch site when a local fisherman, having just landed his skiff, shared some local knowledge as to where I could leave my vehicle (just a ways up the road).

Shortly, with still another half hour 'til high tide, I was on the East Branch of the Westport River and heading towards Westport Point and Westport Harbor.  Noquochoke is the surviving Wampanoag word for the region where I was launching, and the name is still seen on some buildings as well as a nearby lake. 

There was hardly a breath of wind and skies were blue...
I could tell it was going to be one of those "nowhere to go and all day to get there" kind of days.

On my way downriver I paddled through a cluster of six islands: Upper and Lower Spectacles, Little and Big Pines, Great Island, and Gunning Island.  Osprey nests were seemingly everywhere.  While most were on man-made platforms, this one on Upper Spectacle Island utilized a good ole tree...

...and a set of eyes studied my approach...
Almost every nest was busy with parents flying in with food for the nest-bound chicks.  At one point I counted 7 osprey nests within sight.

Below the islands this stately rock stood firmly in the middle of things...

Once around it, the Route 88 bridge came into view spanning the river between Westport Point and Horseneck Beach...
Beyond the bridge I entered Westport Harbor and followed the marked channel as it swung around Horseneck Point and past The Knubble on the Acoaxet side...
This is the part of Westport that's only accessible by land from Rhode Island.   Acoaxet is another surviving Wampanoag place name referring to this spot and possibly the West Branch of the Westport River.

With the ebb tide now underway it was a quick ride to open ocean, and soon I was looking across at what might be the Elizabeth Islands in the distance...

Returning back through the same passage, I hugged the tip of Horseneck Point and found myself paddling against the outgoing tide at the same rate of speed as folks walking the beach only 15 feet to my right.  A strange sensation.

Once around the tip my boat was beached...
...while I enjoyed my first salt water swim of the season.

Once back on the water I entered the Acoaxet or West Branch of the Westport River seeing more wildlife along the way.  An eider duck?...
 A pair of common terns (both banded)...
A busy osprey nest...

And some interesting shellfish (oysters?)...

At low tide boaters have to be vigilant in not running aground.  Those that aren't may require the services of this craft...

I managed to stay afloat and began the journey back to a now busy Hix Bridge Landing where kids were seen taking a pre-summertime plunge from the bridge...

The small amount of trash encountered included yet another of those Narragansett/Del's Lemonade Shandy cans...
Succumbing to the power of suggestion, a can of this beverage was purchased and greatly enjoyed with my supper back at the campsite.  Seems an ideal summertime beverage.

On Monday morning I broke camp and prepared to head to work as a rainy day dawned.  Before leaving Westport I drove down to Horseneck Beach and briefly visited little Gooseberry Island which juts out into the sea from Horseneck Beach...
Is there anything better than the smell of wild roses mingling with the salty air of the sea?

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