Saturday, August 18, 2012

"D-Lights" of Rockport

Yesterday, the work-week's conclusion left me on Cape Ann and I soon found myself driving into the small coastal town of Rockport, Massachusetts and its Granite Pier boat launch.  This has always been one of my favorite launch sites (over 80 times since 1991) but these days find me here less often due to the steep (in my opinion) fee for launching and parking.  Combined they total $12 dollars ($18 for 2 kayaks) for non-residents.  This seems excessive to me especially if kayakers are launching from the old ramp near the pier's end.  Half the cost would seem more appropriate if using that particular ramp.  At any rate, I decided to get my money's worth by taking in as much of Cape Ann's outer reaches as possible on such a beautiful day.
After launching, I paddled towards Straitsmouth Island and as I drew near saw a large group of kayakers who'd tied-off their boats and gone swimming and rock hopping.  One kayaker was practicing seal launches with the Straitsmouth Island lighthouse in the background...
Multiple launches were successful, though (not using a spray skirt) his bailing pump was getting a workout.
Rounding Straitsmouth's NE tip into a refreshing SE breeze, I drew a bead on Thacher Island's twin lighthouses and closed the mile and a half distance...

Conditions were ideal for paddling around the island's ocean side so I did just that before landing at the wooden ramp and going ashore...

The twin 124 foot granite towers of Thacher Island are a majestic site rising 166 feet above water level.  The south tower's red flashing light is said to be visible 19 miles out to sea and was manned by the US Coast Guard until 1980 when it was automated...


The north tower has an amber fluorescent light and is maintained by the Thacher Island Association...

While signing the visitor's log at the landing, it was noted that the north tower was open to visitors and I began the short hike passing several resident gulls along the way...
This last fellow allowed my passage to the tower's steps.  The gulls, in fact, act as if they own the place and, because of this, US Fish and Wildlife has a program aimed at restoring breeding space for common and roseate terns whom the gulls displaced.
After ascending the 156 steps of the spiral stairway, the balcony afforded this view of other kayakers from high above...
Back in the early 90's I camped on the island and recall climbing these same steps to watch the sunrise (just a wee bit earlier than anyone else).  On an especially clear day, the Pilgrim Monument in Provincetown to the southeast as well as the Isles of Shoals to the northeast can be seen with binoculars. 

Thacher Island is named for an early colonial shipwreck that occurred here in August 1635.  The family and friends of Anthony Thacher were sailing from Ipswich to Marblehead aboard the Watch and Wait when they encountered a great storm (possibly a hurricane?) and wrecked on the rocky ledges.  Lost were Thacher's 4 children and 17 other people.  Thacher and his wife washed up on the island where they found and buried the body of his cousin's daughter Elizabeth Avery.  The General Court of Massachusetts granted Thacher title to the island to help ease his loss.

Before disembarking from the island I checked out the rebuilt turntable for the island's small railway system...
The network of rails was used to convey coal, wood, and other supplies from the landing to different parts of the island using small railcars such as these 2 replicas...

The Thacher Island Association runs a boat shuttle for folks wishing to visit the island without having to row or paddle out.  Details can be found here.

From Thacher Island I paddled on over to Loblolly Cove where some of the aforementioned displaced terns were hanging around...

Aside from the terns, some gulls, and cormorants, I had Loblolly to myself...

Returning to the Granite Pier, I encountered this armada of kayaks emanating out from Rockport Harbor...

In regards to trash, I found the waters of Rockport clean as a fog whistle today finding only 1 coffee cup and an empty cigar package.
Crossing between Rowe Point and Sandy Bay Ledge on my way to the boat ramp, my music listening device randomly selected Tom Rush's very nice instrumental Rockport Sunday, and my weekend was off to a great start!


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