Saturday, March 31, 2012

Powder Mill Remains Along the Assabet River

On the occasions when I've launched my boat into the Assabet River at the Acton Canoe Launch, the steep ridge encountered in  the first half mile has always caught my eye.  But, because the river moves swiftly around the bend, and there are shallow spots to avoid, only a fleeting glance is usually obtained.  Near the base of the steep ridge there appears to be an old railroad grade or possibly a dirt roadway.
Yesterday, I hiked in from Route 62 along the intriguing pathway seen in the photo at left.  To the right is the Assabet and to the left is the steep ridge presently called "Forest Ridge".  About 50 to 100 yards in are the remains of some old structures.  The first one encountered is this metal shed nestled into the ridge...

Further along is this concrete foundation and wood timber frame...

So, what were these buildings and could they have been related to the Powder Mills for which much of the area is named?  A search of the internet found mention of a paper presented by Marian Harlow Wheeler to the Concord Women's Club in 1985.  It is titled Pratt's Powder Mills alias "The Acton Powder Mills", "The American Powder Company", "The American Powder Mills", "The American Cyanamid and Chemical Company".   A visit to the Maynard Public Library allowed me to read this paper and thereby learn considerably more about the Powder Mill than I previously knew.
Nathan Pratt founded the operation around 1833 after having learned the art of making gunpowder at a powder mill in Barre, MA.  What drew him to this location was the river's available water power and the glacial eskers which provided natural containment in the event of explosions (which occurred frequently). It wasn't a question of if there would be an explosion but rather when.  Therefore, the operations would be spread out amongst 25 buildings on 400 acres situated along a 2 mile stretch of Route 62 in the towns of Concord, Acton, and Maynard; an area roughly from the present-day Valley Sports Skating Arena to the old Victory Shopping Plaza location.   Buildings were on both sides of the road: traditional black powder made on the south side of the road and the "newer" smokeless powder made on the north side. 
In addition to potassium nitrate and sulphur, large amounts of charcoal were required and produced on site from mostly willow trees.    Walnut or alder trees were also used at times.
Much of the product was used in quarry operations although, during World War I, all of their production was under contract to the Russian Government.

Over the years there were numerous and often fatal explosions.  Wheeler included two of Henry David Thoreau's observations.  This, the second of those two, is from his June 1, 1853 journal entry:   "...The news of the explosion of the powder mills - was not only carried seaward by the cloud which its smoke made - but more effectually - though more slowly by the fragments which floated thither by the river - Melvin yesterday showed me quite a pile - of fragments - some short pieces of larger timber - still black with powder - which he had saved as they were drifting by - No body takes the trouble to record the consequences of such an event - and some no doubt were carried down to the Merrimack - and by the Merrimack - and by the ocean - till perchance they got into the Gulf Stream - and were cast upon the coast of Norway - covered with barnacles - or who can tell what more distant strand? - still bearing some traces of burnt powder - Still capable of telling how and where they were launched to those who can read their signs...Mingling with wrecks of vessels which communicated a different tale, this wreck of powder-mill was cast up on some outlandish strand - and went to swell the pile of drift wood collected by some native - shouldered by whales.  Alighted on at first by the musk-rat and the peet-weet - and finally perhaps the stormy petrel and the beach-birds - It is long before nature forgets it - How slowly the ruins are being dispersed!..."
 
Thoreau's comments remind me of present day floatable plastic trash being dispersed in the river.  It is long before nature forgets it.

The powder mill was sold in 1940 to American Cyanamid and Chemical Co. and then again in 1954 to Dewey and Almy Chemical who used it for synthetic rubber production.  One of the last operating components of powder mill is the small hydro-electric plant which produced electricity for the operation.  Today,  Acton Hydro occupies the building which has been reworked to, once again, produce electricity from the river's flow.

The ruins I visited yesterday are most likely some of the few that remain from black powder operations on the south side of the road.  The pathway is probably much the same as it was during the powder making days.  I could almost envision a mule-pulled wagon hauling the hazardous cargo along the base of the ridge.

This view of the river from the wagon path shows how low water levels are in the Assabet these days...

Wednesday, March 28, 2012

Ware River's Menameset and Wheeler's Surprise

My goal today was twofold: first, I would visit the site of Wheeler's Surprise, an early battle in King Philip's War that occurred on August 2, 1675. Secondly I would paddle on the Ware River past 2 Nipmuck villages known as Menameset.
In July, 1675, Ephraim Curtis made 2 visits to the Nipmuck sachems at their island stronghold in the Quinebaug River in the days just before the Nipmuck entered the war.   A third mission was organized under the command of Captain Edward Hutchinson, and Ephraim Curtis was along as a guide.  They went to the island stronghold but found it vacant and received intelligence that the Nipmucks were now encamped at Menameset along the Ware River.  What they weren't aware of was the fact that the Nipmucks had already entered the war.
This marker erected in 1930 tells the basic story...
The marker is located at the intersection of Barre Rd. (Rt. 67) and D. Whitney Rd.  The location of the ambush has long been in question.  This article by Eric B. Schultz and Michael Tougias in the Bulletin of the Massachusetts Archaeological Society, Volume 60 (2) 1999 presents the various theories and a map showing the pertinent locations.  I also found this Web site describing the first ever re-enactment of the battle and also showing the location where relics were found that more than likely confirm the locale as being Slein Road in New Braintree, MA.
So, after leaving the 1930 marker, I drove down Thompson Road in search of the original marker erected in 1906.  Soon, I was on Mckay Road and this ultimately became Slein Road.  On my left was a rocky hill and on my right was the Winimusset Valley.  It occurred to me that I might be driving very close to the very spot where the ambush occurred.  The 1907 marker was originally located near where Slein Road crossed Winimusset Brook, but due to floods in 1955 washing out the bridge, the marker was moved to West Street where I found it this morning...

With my first goal of the day accomplished, I next headed to a launch site where the Ware River passes under Wheelwright Rd. (Rt. 32) near Adams St. in the town of Barre.  Here, I launched into the river and began paddling downstream towards the Nipmuck villages that once comprised Menameset.  After passing through a brief sleet shower, I reached the site of the upper village which was located in an oxbow...



This village was the furthest from the Wheeler ambush site and the most secure, being surrounded by water on 3 sides.

The middle village was reached 2 miles further downriver near the portage trail around the Wheelwright Mill dam...
The wigwams may have been located on the elevated area beyond the trees.

The portage here is on the left side of the river, just before the dam...
There are no warning signs or floats alerting paddlers to the dam ahead.  I walked the short portage trail and took these photos showing the waterfall, abandoned mill, and view downriver...



About a mile below the dam is where the lower village was located and it was the one closest to where Wheeler was ambushed.  However, as my boat was laden with a good amount of trash, I elected not to do the portage and instead began my return trip upriver.

Wildlife seen on the river today were numerous wood ducks, a pair of hooded mergansers, a blue heron, red-winged blackbirds, and a mink.

The weather today was all over the place: a little rain, a little sun, sometimes cold, sometimes warm.  A classic spring day in New England.  The opening photo shows improving conditions towards the end of my trip.

Trash was plentiful mostly due to someone having allowed their household trash bags to end up in the river...
Combining the contents of 3 such bags with other flotsam resulted in this haul of 158 pieces...
There were 60 recyclable containers (12 redeemable) and 98 pieces of miscellaneous rubbish such as plastic bags, styrofoam, and a busted 5-gallon pail.  YTD = 1381


Saturday, March 24, 2012

A Quiet Morning on the Upper Concord


The serenity I found this morning at the Old North Bridge in Concord will, in a few weeks, be replaced by the sounds of fife and drum with muskets firing as the 1775 battle is re-enacted one more time. 
After launching at Lowell Road and passing under the "rude bridge", I continued downriver and under Monument Street, where this mink tipped me off to some 'March Madness' ahead...
Sure enough, another 2 plastic bags filled with empty beer cans were found.  This larger of the 2 contained more than 30 empty cans...
This is a recurring problem just downstream from the Monument Street bridge and is, perhaps, due to under-age drinking.  I can understand the culprits not wanting to be caught with the empties, but placing them in a plastic bag and dropping them into the river is not the best solution.  Hopefully, they will someday realize that this is a "don't do", especially considering this stretch of river has been designated as "Wild and Scenic".  There has to be someplace, other than the river, where they could ditch cans in the future.

Reaching Great Meadows, another curious mink was seen patrolling the water's edge...

Only one other boat was seen on the water today and it was a small outboard manned with US Fish and Wildlife officers. 

Wildlife, in addition to the 2 minks, were wood ducks, mallards, Canada geese, red-winged blackbirds, small woodpeckers, a musquash, and a red-tailed hawk.

Near Ball's Hill, everyone went ashore for a short conference before we began heading back to Lowell Road...
There were 54 recyclable containers (44 redeemable) and 33 pieces of miscellaneous rubbish such as plastic bags, nip bottles, and several plastic pails.  YTD = 1223

Recently, a photograph of a sign along the Housatonic River, warning of PCB contamination was posted.  In fairness, here's a photo (taken 3/22) of a sign typical of those seen along the Concord and Sudbury Rivers warning of mercury contamination.  In both situations the contaminants are found in the bottom sediment and, unfortunately, will be around for a long time to come.



Thursday, March 22, 2012

Back in the Paddle Again

Lucky for me, my 14 day moratorium on paddling ended yesterday allowing my boat and me to spend part of this incredibly summer-like day on the Assabet River.  It was also the first time using my recently re-tooled air intakes for boat propulsion, and they performed well though speeds were kept near idle in keeping with the chief mechanic's break-in recommendations.  After launching at Lowell Road, I decided to head upriver to "Moose Cove" and back.  The photo at left was taken upstream of Willow Island and, at this point, I was sensing my universe being back in the proper order. 
On the river's north bank, across from Willow Island, there were 2 traps possibly set to capture musquash or beavers...
...something you don't see too often.

Wildlife encountered were ducks (wood, mallard, and Muscovy), Canada geese, one great blue heron, one large snapping turtle, numerous painted turtles, frogs, and this belted kingfisher...
Two other paddlers were enjoying the river this morning...

At "Moose Cove", I enjoyed a lunch break before returning to Lowell Road.

My trash haul of 82 posed in the mid-day sunshine...
 There were 32 recyclable containers (3 redeemable) and 50 pieces of miscellaneous rubbish such as styrofoam, plastic bags, nip bottles, a tackle box, a sneaker, a sandal, a 5-gallon pail, some fish attractant meant to entice bass, and part of a plastic windmill.  YTD = 1136.

Wednesday, March 21, 2012

Quaboag Exodus to Refuge in the West


It’s the first day of spring but feels more like summer and I’m standing near the Housatonic River in Great Barrington, MA.  Between me and the river is a weathered stone obelisk that has stood in this spot since 1904.  While the words originally inscribed are no longer discernable, a newer plaque, much closer to the ground, preserves the text for future generations...

The event commemorated by the marker is one I was unaware of before reading Dennis A. Connole’s The Indians of the Nipmuck Country in Southern New England, and through which I learned just how poignant the event was to the Quaboag tribe of Nipmucks.  Most traditional historic accounts explain the event as a purely military operation.  This account, from a Great Barrington Web site, is fairly typical:  “Here, near the old fordway, in all probability occurred that celebrated scrimmage between King Philip’s warriors flying to refuge in the West, and the gallant Major Talcott, son of the Worshipful John Talcott of Hartford, who pursued them from Westfield over the wilderness trail to the banks of the Housatonic.”

Connole mentions accounts such as the above but also introduces into the mix an alternative and far more complex account from the book The Bay Path and Along the Way, written by Levi Badger Chase and published in 1919.  Chase tells the remarkable story of a Nipmuck sachem trying to lead his people to safe refuge in the Hudson River valley of New York state in the aftermath of King Philip’s War 1675 - 76. 

The location and details of this encounter are still disputed to this day.  What follows is my understanding based upon the account I read in The Bay Path and Along the Way.

In the days leading up to and immediately following the death of Metacomet (aka King Philip), the Nipmucks, many of whom had fought with the Wampanoag and Narragansett forces against the colonists, found themselves in dire straits.  The war was lost.  Their food and ammunition supplies were gone.   

The Nipmuck sachems had sued for peace and were given no quarter.  Left with no good options, some elected to join the Pennacooks and were ultimately duped into capture at Dover, NH.  Others tried to go back to their normal existence and were shortly rounded up, executed, or sold into slavery.  The Quaboag sachem Konkawasco, however, had apparently managed to maintain his neutral status, as promised, during the 11 months of conflict.  He and his people had remained in the present-day Sturbridge area which was then known as Tantasqua.  It is said he, having in June 1676 seen first-hand where even Christian Indians had been killed by militia at Channagongum, came to realize that staying in Quaboag was not going to be possible for him and his people.  Chase ascribes these words to Konkawasco: “What is the good of signing a paper to live under the laws of the white man and be protected.  We are destroyed, it is either death or slavery.”  Therefore, he convened a council at the island stronghold in the Quinebaug River where he explained to his people that they must leave their homes forever and journey to refuge in the west.  If they could make it there, a great man (NY Governor Andros?) had promised them protection.  To reach this refuge they would need to travel by foot the more than 80 miles from Quaboag to an area along the Hudson River near present-day Saugerties, NY.  They would have to cross several rivers: the Chicopee, the Connecticut, the Westfield, the Housatonic, and finally the Hudson itself somewhere below Albany.

A first group of 250 apparently had made the journey safely in mid-July but were seen in Westfield in a hungry and exhausted state.   This resulted in a heightened awareness on the part of colonists to future movements west.   The second group, led by Konkawasco, began the trek the second week of August and this group was comprised of many women, children and elders.   They made it across both the Connecticut and Westfield Rivers before reaching the Housatonic River and what they must have felt was safety on the river’s west bank.  However, at Westfield they’d been seen and a Major Talcott had been alerted to their passage.  He promptly led his combined troop of militia and Mohegan Indians to Westfield from where they set off in hot pursuit.   Talcott’s forces caught up to and discovered the Native American “fugitives” camped along the Housatonic River noting a relaxed manner about them.

Talcott decided to pull back and spend the night before launching a surprise attack at daybreak.  Splitting his forces in two, he sent one half to cross the river downstream from the Native encampment, while he stayed with the other group on the east bank.  His plan was to attack the encampment from the west thus trapping the Indians along the river.  His forces would then attack from the east and wrap things up.  However, as the first group crossed the river, a lone Indian fishing saw them and called out the alarm before he was killed.  This resulted in the attack occurring sooner than planned, but nonetheless caught the Native Americans unprepared and a massacre was soon underway.  As the bodies fell and the death count mounted, a strange thing is said to have happened and is thus described by Chase: “When the descendant of a noble line of chiefs stepped out and raising his hand said ‘I am Konkawasco, let my people go’, it was the Mohegans that interfered and stopped the slaughter, and the Chief and the remainder of his people were allowed to go.” 

Wow!  One man bravely standing forth and proclaiming what many others knew to be true.  And it worked.  Just this once, it worked!

Is it true?  No one knows for sure or even exactly on whose account the story is based.  However, Chase presents a logical explanation in regards to the Mohegans having been familiar with Konkawasco and his neutral status.  Other accounts written by English historians mention the “battle” having been handily won by Talcott; that 45 Indians were killed, and a Quaboag sachem captured.   Additionally, Puritan authorities in Connecticut wrote a series of letters to New York Governor Andros trying to obtain the return of escaped sachems.   I’m left to surmise that if Konkawasco had been captured at Housatonic, his subsequent fate, surely, would have been recorded.  Because it wasn’t, I’m more than willing to accept the legend and appreciate its powerful affirmation of personal courage and basic human dignity. 

In my reading of the events of King Philip’s War, I keep looking for individuals who conducted themselves honorably despite the prevalence of racial/ethnic hatred that swept over most.  I haven’t found many.  Concord’s John Hoar comes to mind as well as the Pennacook sachem Wannalancet, and now, thanks to Connole and Chase, the Quaboag sachem Konkawasco.  On this, the most hopeful and promising day of the year, the legend seems fitting.

Connole's book on the Nipmucks also altered my opinions of other folks whom I previously held in either high or low regard.  Despite Roger Williams having been banished from the Massachusetts Bay Colony (earning my high regard), he nonetheless continued to provide valuable intelligence to the Puritan Colony knowing that such intelligence was being used by Puritans to destroy their perceived enemies.  It appears he played a key role in the destruction of the Pequot people in the 1630’s.

On the other hand, my previously low opinion of New York’s Governor Andros changed considerably as I read how time after time he was the only real check on New England’s fanatical Puritans.  Imagine the Puritan consternation when, as Governor of New England, he declared their signed land deeds from Native Americans to have “no more worth than a scratch with a bear’s paw”.  Besides being a perpetual thorn in the Puritan’s side, he also provided refuge, in New York, for those they’d persecuted.  He had a good run before the Puritans, unfortunately, prevailed in his overthrow and subsequent exile to England.

The Mohegan people and their great chief, Uncas, are seen in a different light as well.  I’m left to wonder if there was any line Uncas wouldn’t cross in return for additional power and status.

So, earlier in the day, Mrs. Trashpaddler and I decided to follow, by car, what may have been the general route Konkawasco’s group traveled back in August 1676.  Starting in the Sturbridge location known as Fiskdale (Tantasqua), our route took us down to the Quinebaug River in Holland, MA, then north to Route 20 west.  Instead of crossing the Connecticut River in Springfield, as we did, Konkawasco veered towards the north crossing the Chickopee River and then the Connecticut River below South Hadley Falls.    Our routes may have joined again near Woronoco, where after crossing the Westfield River, we picked up Route 23 which we would follow all the way to the Housatonic River.  Apparently, General Knox used the same trail 100 years later in 1776 when he transported the 60 cannons from Fort Ticonderoga, NY to Cambridge, MA thus forcing the British from Boston Harbor.  In the town of Otis, we came upon this nicely maintained marker...


A man living across the road, Titus, explained his family helps to keep the site up and also pointed out this remnant of the original trail...


Once in Great Barrington, we enjoyed walking the town’s River Walk, nicely built along two sections of the Housatonic River and also taking in some sightseeing on a summer-like afternoon.

The Housatonic looking towards the Fordway...

A reminder of our short-sightedness...

A couple of signs sure to catch my eye...





A short terrestrial trash patrol of the canoe launch by Bridge Street was conducted, in honor of Konkawasco…

Thursday, March 15, 2012

A Little Time Aground


Since my visit to Quaboag and a subsequent sinus procedure, my boat and I’ve been aground, like a couple of fishes out of water, so to speak.  Yesterday, while outside for a bit, I found myself looking upon the waters that were flowing from the nearby hills...


Pictured are the waters of Nashoba Brook shortly after being joined by Nagog Brook in Acton.  These two Native American names brought to mind another interestingly named brook that I recently encountered in a book.  Ever hear of Naromiyocknowhusunkatankshunk Brook in Sherman, Connecticut?    I ran across it in The Indians of the Housatonic and Naugatuck Valleys by Samuel Orcutt 1882 and said to myself “bet that name is long gone”.  Imagine my surprise in finding that, athough the original name was changed in the past, it was restored in 2001 and is the current name in use today.  So, what does it mean you ask: “water flowing from the hills”, of course.   What else?

Nashoba Brook/Icehouse Pond

So, for a little while longer, as Mr. Dylan once said  “…I’ll just sit down on this bank of sand and watch the river flow”...
Nashoba Brook/Icehouse Pond

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Paddling to Quaboag Pond

This morning, I continued my exploration of "Nipmuck Country" by paddling the Quaboag River a short distance into Quaboag Pond in Brookfield, MA.  My recent reading of The Indians of Nipmuck Country in Southern New England by Dennis A. Connole inspired me to see some of these locations first hand.  According to Connole, the Quaboag tribe of Nipmucks lived in this region that lies roughly between the Menemeseek (Ware River) to the north and the Quinebaug River to the south. Between those rivers lies the westerly flowing Quaboag River starting at where it exits the 545 acre Quaboag Pond.  The opening photo is looking into the pond from the river.  A little further along the full size of the pond can be seen...
 Josiah H. Temple's History of North Brookfield written in 1887 provided information as to where some of the larger villages may have been located: at south end of Quaboag Pond (east of canal to Quacumquasit Pond), Quaboag Old Fort (Ashquoach), other fort near confluence of Five Mile and Seven Mile Rivers, and the largest village at the south end of Wekabaug Pond.

So, after digesting a lot of this information, and the additional tidbit that the great Wampanoag (Pokanoket) sachem Massasoit came here in 1657 to live out his final years, I found myself driving on the Springfield Road (Rt. 9) to do some exploration by water on this beautiful early spring morning.  Equipped with a map dating to 1665 (Plan of Shattoockquis Land from Temple's book), I launched into the Quaboag River where it passes under Fiskdale Road (Rt. 148) and headed upriver towards the pond.  Note: Anyone using this launch site should take care when driving in as ground clearance under vehicle can be an issue.  Otherwise, it's ideal.
Also running alongside the river this morning was this large CSX freight train...
The train is heading west on the old Boston and Albany line.

On the way to the pond, I passed several humble abodes of the resident creatures such as this musquash hi-rise...


And this beaver lodge...


Later, the residents were seen out and about.  The musquash...
And the beaver...
Who exited with a little fanfare...
In addition to these guys there were tons of ducks, seemingly of every variety, on the water or in the sky.  Also in the sky were red-tailed hawks, turkey vultures, red-winged blackbirds, and majestically patrolling the skies above the pond, a bald eagle. 
Upon reaching the southern area of Quaboag Pond, I found snow-covered ice blocking access to the canal leading to Quacumqausit Pond...
Exiting my boat here allowed for a lunch break near the spot where, perhaps, a raccoon had recently enjoyed feasting on freshwater clams...
After lunch, I returned to the river and began heading back to the west.  One stream entering from the NE caught my attention and after a little debate, I pushed myself up and over a small beaver dam to gain entrance.  On the 1665 map the stream is named Nacumuck and on more recent maps, Moore's Brook from Dunn Brook.  I was able to go about 250 yards before coming to one of the best constructed beaver dams I've ever seen...
The dam ran about 100' in a semi-circle.  In the small pond above it were 2 green wood duck boxes?
As I turned back towards the river, a bald eagle flew overhead.
When I reached Fiskdale Road, I decided to paddle downstream another mile or so and looking to the SW was this ridge in the distance...
I'm not sure if it is far enough back to be Quaboag Old Fort (Asquoach) but it is in the right direction.

If Massasoit, then known as Ousamequin, did spend his final years here he must have enjoyed them greatly.  It is said he died in the 1660's before the war that ended the Quaboag people's happy times in this region.

Very little trash was encountered while on the water today.  Most of what is seen next to my boat was recovered from the launch site upon my arrival...
The stuff on the right is from the launch site.  Combined, there were 23 recyclable containers (1 redeemable) and 22 pieces of miscellaneous rubbish such as plastic bags, nip bottles, styrofoam, and a mylar balloon.  YTD = 1054